A home inspection is an evaluation of the visible and accessible systems and components of a home (plumbing, heating and cooling, electrical, structure, roof, etc.) and is intended to give the client (buyer, seller, or homeowner) a better understanding of the home’s general condition. Most often it is a buyer who requests an inspection of the home he or she is serious about purchasing<\/p>\n\n\n\n
. A home inspection delivers data so that decisions about the purchase can be confirmed or questioned, and can uncover serious and\/or expensive to repair defects that the seller\/owner may not be aware of. It is not an appraisal of the property’s value; nor does it address the cost of repairs. It does not guarantee that the home complies with local building codes or protect a client in the event an item inspected fails in the future. [Note: Warranties can be purchased to cover many items.] A home inspection should not be considered a “technically exhaustive” evaluation, but rather an evaluation of the property on the day it is inspected, taking into consideration normal wear and tear for the home’s age and location. A home inspection can also include, for extra fees, Radon gas testing, water testing, energy audits, pest inspections, pool inspections, and several other specific items that may be indigenous to the region of the country where the inspection takes place. Home inspections are also used (less often) by a seller before listing the property to see if there are any hidden problems that they are unaware of, and also by homeowners simply wishing to care for their homes, prevent surprises, and keep the home investment value as high as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The important results to pay attention to in a home inspection are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
1.\n Major defects, such as large differential cracks in the foundation; \nstructure out of level or plumb; decks not installed or supported \nproperly, etc. These are items that are expensive to fix, which we \nclassify as items requiring more than 2% of the purchase price to \nrepair.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
2. Things that could lead to major defects – a roof \nflashing leak that could get bigger, damaged downspouts that could cause\n backup and water intrusion, or a support beam that was not tied in to \nthe structure properly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
3. Safety hazards, such as an exposed \nelectrical wiring, lack of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) in \nkitchens and bathrooms, lack of safety railing on decks more than 30 \ninches off the ground, etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Your inspector will advise you about \nwhat to do about these problems. He\/she may recommend evaluation – and \non serious issues most certainly will – by licensed or certified \nprofessionals who are specialists in the defect areas. For example, your\n inspector will recommend you call a licensed building engineer if they \nfind sections of the home that are out of alignment, as this could \nindicate a serious structural deficiency.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Home Inspections are only done by a buyer after they sign a contract, right?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n This\n is not true! As you will see when you read on, a home inspection can be\n used for interim inspections in new construction, as a maintenance tool\n by a current homeowner, a proactive technique by sellers to make their \nhome more sellable, and by buyers wanting to determine the condition of \nthe potential home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sellers, in particular, can benefit from \ngetting a home inspection before listing the home. Here are just a few \nof the advantages for the seller:<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 The seller knows the home! The\n home inspector will be able to get answers to his\/her questions on the \nhistory of any problems they find.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 A home inspection will help the seller be more objective when it comes to setting a fair price on the home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 The seller can take the report and make it into a marketing piece for the home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 The seller will be alerted to any safety issues found in the home before they open it up for open house tours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 The seller can make repairs leisurely instead being in a rush after the contract is signed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Why should I get a home inspection? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Your\n new home has dozens of systems and over 10,000 parts – from heating and\n cooling to ventilation and appliances. When these systems and \nappliances work together, you experience comfort, energy savings, and \ndurability. Weak links in the system, however, can produce assorted \nproblems leading to a loss in value and shortened component life. Would \nyou buy a used car without a qualified mechanic looking at it? Your home\n is far more complicated, and to have a thorough inspection that is \ndocumented in a report arms you with substantial information on which to\n make decisions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Why can’t I do the inspection myself?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Most\n homebuyers lack the knowledge, skill, and objectivity needed to inspect\n a home themselves. By using the services of a professional home \ninspector, they gain a better understanding of the condition of the \nproperty; especially whether any items do not “function as intended” or \n“adversely affect the habitability of the dwelling” or “warrant further \ninvestigation” by a specialist. Remember that the home inspector is a \ngeneralist and is broadly trained in every home system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Why can’t I ask a family member who is handy or who is a contractor to inspect my new home?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Although\n your nephew or aunt may be very skilled, he or she is not trained or \nexperienced in professional home inspections and usually lacks the \nspecialized test equipment and knowledge required for an inspection. \nHome inspection training and expertise represent a distinct, licensed \nprofession that employs rigorous standards of practice. Most contractors\n and other trade professionals hire a professional home inspector to \ninspect their own homes when they themselves purchase a home!<\/p>\n\n\n\n What does a home inspection cost?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n This\n is often the first question asked but the answer tells the least about \nthe quality of the inspection. Fees are based according to size, age and\n various other aspects of the home. Inspection fees from a certified \nprofessional home inspector generally start under $300. An average price\n for a 2,000 square foot home nationally is about $350-$375. What you \nshould pay attention to is not the fee, but the qualifications of your \ninspector. Are they nationally certified (passed the NHIE exam)? Are \nthey state certified if required?<\/p>\n\n\n\n How long does the inspection take?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n This\n depends upon the size and condition of the home. You can usually figure\n 1.2 hours for every 1,000 square feet. For example, a 2,500 square foot\n house would take about 3 hours. If the company also produces the report\n at your home, that will take an additional 30-50 minutes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Do all homes require a home inspection?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Yes\n and No. Although not required by law in most states, we feel that any \nbuyer not getting a home inspection is doing themselves a great \ndisservice. They may find themselves with costly and unpleasant \nsurprises after moving into the home and suffer financial headaches that\n could easily have been avoided.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Should I be at the inspection? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n It’s\n a great idea for you be present during the inspection – whether you are\n buyer, seller, or homeowner. With you there, the inspector can show you\n any defects and explain their importance as well as point out \nmaintenance features that will be helpful in the future. If you can’t be\n there, it is not a problem since the report you receive will be very \ndetailed. If you are not present, then you should be sure to ask your \ninspector to explain anything that is not clear in the report. Also read\n the inspection agreement carefully so you understand what is covered \nand what is not covered in the inspection. If there is a problem with \nthe inspection or the report, you should raise the issues quickly by \ncalling the inspector, usually within 24 hours. If you want the \ninspector to return after the inspection to show you things, this can be\n arranged and is a good idea, however, you will be paying for the \ninspector’s time on a walkthrough since this was not included in the \noriginal service.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Should the seller attend the home inspection that has been ordered by the buyer?<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\n seller will be welcome at the inspection (it is still their home) \nalthough they should understand that the inspector is working for the \nbuyer. The conversation that the inspector has with the buyer may be \nupsetting to the seller if the seller was unaware of the items being \npointed out, or the seller may be overly emotional about any flaws. This\n is a reason why the seller might want to consider getting their own \ninspection before listing the home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Can a house fail a home inspection?<\/p>\n\n\n\n No.\n A home inspection is an examination of the current condition of your \nprospective home. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value,\n or a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home\n inspector, therefore, cannot not pass or fail a house. The inspector \nwill objectively describe the home’s physical condition and indicate \nwhich items are in need of repair or replacement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What is included in the inspection?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The\n following list is not exhaustive. Not all of these may be in the \ninspection you get, but the inspector will be following a standardized \nchecklist for the home:\n Other items that are not a part of the standard inspection can be added for an additional fee:\n We \nrecommend getting a Radon Test if your prospective home falls into an \narea of the country with known Radon seepage, since Radon gas produces \ncancer second only to cigarette smoking and can be easily mitigated by \ninstalling a vent system. We also recommend a water test to make sure \nyou do not have bacteria in the water supply. Water can also be tested \nfor Radon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What is not included in the inspection?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Most\n people assume that everything is inspected in depth on inspection day. \nThis misunderstanding has caused many a homebuyer to be upset with their\n inspector. The inspections we do are not exhaustive and there is a good\n reason for this. If you hired someone with licenses for heating and \ncooling, electrical, plumbing, engineering, etc. to inspect your house, \nit would take about 14 hours and cost you about $2000! It is much more \npractical to hire a professional inspector who has generalist knowledge \nof home systems, knows what to look for, and can recommend further \ninspection by a specialist if needed. Your inspector is also following \nvery specific guidelines as he\/she inspects your home. These are either \nnational guidelines (ASHI – American Society of Home Inspectors, \nInterNACHI – International Association of Certified Home Inspectors) or \nstate guidelines. These guidelines are carefully written to protect both\n your home and the inspector. Here are some examples: We are directed to\n not turn systems on if they were off at the time of the inspection \n(safety reasons); we are not allowed to move furniture (might harm \nsomething); not allowed to turn on water if it is off (possible \nflooding), and not allowed to break through a sealed attic hatch \n(possible damage). The downside of this practice is that by not \noperating a control, by not seeing under the furniture, and not getting \ninto the attic or crawlspace, we will might miss identifying a problem. \nHowever, put into perspective, the chances of missing something serious \nbecause of this is quite low, and the guideline as it relates to safety \nand not harming anything in the home is a good one. There are other \nitems that 95% of inspectors consider outside a normal inspection, and \nthese include inspecting most things that are not bolted down (installed\n in the home) such as electronics, low voltage lighting, space heaters, \nportable air conditioners, or specialized systems such as water \npurifiers, alarm systems, etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What if there are things you can’t inspect (like snow on the roof)?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n It\n just so happens that some days the weather elements interfere with a \nfull home inspection! There isn’t much we can do about this either. If \nthere is snow on the roof we will tell you we were unable to inspect it.\n Of course we will be looking at the eves and the attic, and any other \nareas where we can get an idea of condition, but we will write in the \nreport that we could not inspect the roof. It is impractical for us to \nreturn another day once the snow melts, because we have full schedules. \nHowever, you can usually pay an inspector a small fee to return and \ninspect the one or two items they were unable to inspect when they were \nthere the first time. This is just the way things go. If you ask the \ninspector for a re-inspection, they will usually inspect the items then at no extra charge (beyond the re-inspection fee).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Will the inspector walk on the roof?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The\n inspector will walk on the roof if it is safe, accessible, and strong \nenough so that there is no damage done to it by walking on it. Some \nroofs – such as slate and tile, should not be walked on. Sometimes \nbecause of poor weather conditions, extremely steep roofs, or very high \nroofs, the inspector will not be able to walk the roof. The inspector \nwill try to get up to the edge though, and will also use binoculars \nwhere accessibility is a problem. They will also examine the roof from \nthe upper windows if that is possible. There is a lot the inspector can \ndetermine from a visual examination from a ladder and from the ground, \nand they will be able to tell a lot more from inside the attic about the\n condition of the roof as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Should I have my house tested for Radon? What exactly is Radon?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n In\n many areas of the country, the answer is a definite yes. You can ask \nyour real estate agent about this or go on to the internet for a radon \nmap of the country. Radon is a colorless, odorless, tasteless \nradioactive gas that’s formed during the natural breakdown of uranium in\n soil, rock, and water. Radon exits the ground and can seep into your \nhome through cracks and holes in the foundation. Radon gas can also \ncontaminate well water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Health officials have determined that \nradon gas is a serious carcinogen that can cause lung cancer, second \nonly to cigarette smoking. The only way to find out if your house \ncontains radon gas is to perform a radon measurement test, which your \nhome inspector can do. Make sure the person conducting your test has \nbeen trained to The National Environmental Health Association (NEHA) or \nThe National Radon Safety Board (NRSB) standards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What about a newly constructed home? Does it need a home inspection?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Yes!\n In fact, we find far more problems, some quite serious, in newly \nconstructed homes than in homes that have been lived in for years. This \nis not due to your builder’s negligence – he\/she has done the best job \nthey could with subcontractors and planning – it’s just that there are \nso many systems in a home, that it is close to impossible to inspect \neverything, and correct it before the Certificate of Occupancy is \nissued. Then, for some reason, the subcontractors no longer want to work\n on the home, and final jobs and details are missed. We recommend \ngetting several professional home inspections near the completion stages\n of the home to discover everything that should be corrected. If the \nhouse is still new but sitting for a while before sale, it’s even more \nimportant to get a home inspection. We have seen water lines not hooked \nup, plumbing lines not hooked up, sewer lines not hooked up, vents not \nhooked up, and a variety of other serious but easily correctable \nproblems!<\/p>\n\n\n\n I am having a home built. The builder assures me he \nwill inspect everything. Should I have an independent inspector make \nperiodic inspections?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Absolutely yes! No matter how good your \nbuilder is, he\/she WILL miss things. They are so concerned with the \nhouse, they get so close to their work, as do the subcontractors, that \nimportant items can, and will be, overlooked. Have a professional \ninspector make at least 4-6 interim inspections. They will be worth \ntheir weight in gold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What is the Pre-Inspection Agreement?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Most\n service professionals have a service agreement, and home inspection is \nno different. In fact, there is enough confusion about what a home \ninspection should deliver that the agreement is even more important. \nSome homeowners who get a home inspection expect everything in the home \nto be perfect after the repairs. This is not the case! Imagine getting a\n call from a homeowner a year later who says the toilet is not flushing –\n remember that the inspection is a moment in time snapshot. In the \ninspection agreement the inspector is clear about what the inspection \ndelivers and the things that are not covered, as well as what you should\n do if you are not pleased with the services. We really think that by \nreviewing this before-hand you will understand much more about the \ninspection and be happier with the results. A home inspection does not \nguard against future problems, nor does it guarantee that all problems \nwill be found.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What kind of report will I get following the inspection?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n There\n are as many versions of a “report” as there are inspection companies. \nGuidelines dictate that the inspector deliver a written report to the \nclient. This can range from a handwritten checklist that has multiple \npress copies without pictures and 4 pages long to a computer generated \nprofessionally produced report with digital pictures that is 35 pages \nlong and can be converted to Adobe PDF for storage and emailing. Be sure\n to check with your inspector about the report he or she uses. We \nrecommend the computer generated report, since the checklist is more \ndetailed and easier for the homeowner\/buyer\/seller to detail out the \nissues with photographs. In this modern age, we feel the reports must be\n web accessible and e-mailable to match the technologies most of us are \nusing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are some great things you can use the report for in \naddition to the wealth of information it simply gives you on your new \nhome:<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 Use the report as a checklist and guide for the contractor\n to make repairs and improvements or get estimates and quotes from more \nthan one contractor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 Use the report as a budgeting tool using \nthe inspector’s recommendations and the remaining expected life of \ncomponents to keep the property in top shape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 If you are a \nseller, use the report to make repairs and improvements, raising the \nvalue of the home and impressing the buyers. Then have a re-inspection \nand use this second report as a marketing tool for prospective buyers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00b7 Use the report as a “punch list” on a re-inspection and as a baseline for ongoing maintenance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Will the report be emailable or available as an Adobe PDF file?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Yes. As discussed in the last question, you will probably want your inspector to be using the latest reporting technology.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What if I think the inspector missed something?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Inspectors\n are human, and yes, they do miss items. However, they routinely use \nadvanced tools and techniques to reduce the possibility that they will \nmiss something. This includes very detailed checklists, reference \nmanuals, computer based lists, and a methodical always-done-the-same-way\n of physically moving around your home. That is one of the reasons that \nan inspector can miss an item when they get interrupted. The inspector \nwill have a set way of resuming the inspection if this happens. If, in \nthe end, something IS missed, call the inspector and discuss it. It may \nwarrant the inspector returning to view something that you found. \nRemember, the inspector is doing the very best job they know how to do, \nand probably did not miss the item because they were lax in their \ntechnique or did not care.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What if the inspector tells me I \nshould have a professional engineer or a licensed plumber or other \nprofessional contractor in to look at something they found? Isn’t this \n“passing the buck”?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n You may be disappointed that further \ninvestigation is required, but, believe us, your inspector is doing \nexactly what they should be doing. The purpose of the inspection is to \ndiscover defects that affect your safety and the functioning of the \nhome; the inspector is a generalist, not a specialist. Our code of \nethics as well as national and state guidelines dictate that only \ncontractors that are licensed in their specialty field should \nwork on these systems and areas. When they tell you that a specialist is\n needed, there may be a bigger, more critical issue that you need to \nknow about. If you move into the home without getting these areas \nchecked by a qualified specialist, you could be in for some nasty and \nexpensive surprises. The inspector does not want to cause you any more \nexpense or worry either, so when they do recommend further evaluation \nthey are being serious about protecting you and your investment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Will the inspector provide a warranty on the inspected items?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Most\n inspectors do not give the homeowner a warranty on inspected items. \nRemember, a home inspection is a visual examination on a certain day, \nand the inspector cannot predict what issues could arise over time after\n the inspection. However, some inspectors are now including a warranty \nfrom the largest home warranty company in America – American Home \nWarranty Corporation, as well as others, on the inspected items for 60 \nor 90 days. This is a very good deal, and the agreement can be extended \nafter the initial period for a relatively small amount of money.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Do most inspection companies offer money back guarantees?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Most\n inspection companies do not offer a satisfaction guarantee nor do they \nmention it in their advertising. It’s always a good thing if you can get\n extra services for no additional cost from your inspection company, and\n of course a satisfaction guarantee is an indication of superior \ncustomer service. You usually have to call your inspection company right\n after the inspection and viewing of the report to tell them you are not\n satisfied. If you are not happy with the services, you should talk to \nyour inspector first and let him\/her correct the issue(s) you are \nunhappy with first, as the inspector is trying to make an honest living \njust like the rest of us, and is not failing you on purpose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What if my report comes back with nothing really defective in the home? Should I ask for my money back?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n No,\n don’t ask for your money back – you just received great news! Now you \ncan complete your home purchase with peace of mind about the condition \nof the property and all its equipment and systems. You will have \nvaluable information about your new home from the inspector’s report, \nand will want to keep that information for future reference. Most \nimportantly, you can feel assured that you are making a well-informed \npurchase decision.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What if the inspection reveals serious defects?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n If\n the inspection reveals serious defects in the home (we define a serious\n defect as something that will cost more than 2% of the purchase price \nto fix) then pat yourself on the back for getting an inspection. You \njust saved yourself a ton of money. Of course it is disappointing, even \nheart wrenching, to find out that your well researched house is now a \nproblem house, but you now know the facts and can either negotiate with \nthe seller, or move on. You may want the home so much that it will be \nworth it to negotiate the price and then perform the repairs. Imagine, \nthough, if you had not gotten the inspection – you would have had some \nvery unpleasant surprises.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Can I ask my home inspector to perform the repairs?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n You\n can, but if your inspector is ethical, he\/she will refuse, and \ncorrectly so; it is a conflict of interest for the person who inspected \nyour home to also repair it! Inspectors are specifically barred from \nthis practice by licensing authorities, and it’s a good practice – an \ninspector must remain completely impartial when he or she inspects your \nhome. This is one reason you should have a professional home inspector \ninspect your home and not a contractor – the contractor will want the \nrepair work and you are likely to not have an objective inspection from \nthis person even though they mean well and are technically competent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Does the Seller have to make the repairs?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The\n inspection report results do not place an obligation on the seller to \nrepair everything mentioned in the report. Once the home condition is \nknown, the buyer and the seller should sit down and discuss what is in \nthe report. The report will be clear about what is a repair and what is a\n discretionary improvement. This area should be clearly negotiated \nbetween the parties. It’s important to know that the inspector must stay\n out of this discussion because it is outside of their scope of work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After\n the home inspection and consulting with the seller on the repairs, can I\n re-employ the inspector to come re-inspect the home to make sure \neverything got fixed?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n You certainly can, and it’s a really \ngood idea. For a small fee the inspector will return to determine if the\n repairs were completed, and if they were completed correctly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What if I find problems after I move into my new home? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n A\n home inspection is not a guarantee that problems won’t develop after \nyou move in. However, if you believe that a problem was visible at the \ntime of the inspection and should have been mentioned in the report, \nyour first step should be to call the inspector. He or she will be fine \nwith this, and does want you to call if you think there is a problem. If\n the issue is not resolved with a phone call, they will come to your \nhome to look at it. They will want you to be satisfied and will do \neverything they can to do this. One way to protect yourself between the \ninspection and the move-in is to conduct a final walkthrough on closing \nday and use both the inspection report AND a Walkthrough Checklist to \nmake sure everything is as it should be. Copyright 2010 by Lisa P. Turner<\/p>\n\n\n\n \n\nArticle Source: http:\/\/EzineArticles.com\/3618814 A home inspection is an evaluation of the visible and accessible systems and components of a home (plumbing, heating and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7538,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\r\n
\u00b7 Site drainage and grading\n
\u00b7 Driveway\n
\u00b7 Entry Steps, handrails\n
\u00b7 Decks\n
\u00b7 Masonry\n
\u00b7 Landscape (as it relates to the home)\n
\u00b7 Retaining walls\n
\u00b7 Roofing, flashings, chimneys, and attic\n
\u00b7 Eaves, soffits, and fascias\n
\u00b7 Walls, doors, windows, patios, walkways\n
\u00b7 Foundation, basement, and crawlspaces\n
\u00b7 Garage, garage walls, floor, and door operation\n
\u00b7 Kitchen appliances (dishwasher, range\/oven\/cooktop\/hoods, microwave, disposal, trash compactor)\n
\u00b7 Laundry appliances (washer and dryer)\n
\u00b7 Ceilings, walls, floors\n
\u00b7 Kitchen counters, floors, and cabinets\n
\u00b7 Windows and window gaskets\n
\u00b7 Interior doors and hardware\n
\u00b7 Plumbing systems and fixtures\n
\u00b7 Electrical system, panels, entrance conductors\n
\u00b7 Electrical grounding, GFCI, outlets\n
\u00b7 Smoke (fire) detectors\n
\u00b7 Ventilation systems and Insulation\n
\u00b7 Heating equipment and controls\n
\u00b7 Ducts and distribution systems\n
\u00b7 Fireplaces\n
\u00b7 Air Conditioning and controls\n
\u00b7 Heat Pumps and controls\n
\u00b7 Safety items such as means of egress, TPRV valves, railings, etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u00b7 Radon Gas Test\n
\u00b7 Water Quality Test\n
\u00b7 Termite Inspection (usually performed by a separate company)\n
\u00b7 Gas Line Leak Test (usually performed by the gas company)\n
\u00b7 Sprinkler System Test\n
\u00b7 Swimming Pool and Spa Inspection\n
\u00b7 Mold Screening (sometimes performed by a separate company)\n
\u00b7 Septic System Inspection (usually performed by a separate company)\n
\u00b7 Alarm System (usually performed by a separate company)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"